Kimchi, Made in China: The Way Korea's National Dish Faces a Price War Domestically.

The pungent smell of red chilli powder fills the air at a kimchi factory in Incheon. Inside, salted cabbage rests in large metal vats during the primary stage of a traditional procedure.

The difficulty is due to a widening trade imbalance. The country brings in more kimchi than it sends abroad, with lower-cost Chinese-made products taking hold in the local market.

The Price Disparity

Chinese kimchi sells to restaurants at approximately 1,700 won per kilogram. Conversely, Korean-made versions are priced at roughly 3,600 won per kilogram—more than double the price.

In the first ten months of the year, imports stood at $159 million, predominantly from China, while overseas sales amounted to $137 million.

A Cornerstone of Culture

Kimchi is a cornerstone of culinary tradition on the peninsula. Its definition covers far more than the spicy cabbage most familiar to global audiences.

• There are over 150 recognised types, made with radish, cucumber, spring onions and other vegetables.
• They are seasoned with blends of pepper flakes, garlic, ginger and jeotgal.
• The fermentation process produces health-promoting lactic acid bacteria, contributing to its status as a health food.

Shifting Habits

Historically, families prepared large quantities together during the annual kimjang ritual, a practice designated by UNESCO. Yet, consumption patterns are changing.

One-person homes have more than tripled since 2000, now accounting for more than 36% of all households. As a result, a declining number make kimchi at home.

Nowadays, it is increasingly consumed pre-packaged or while eating out, where it is served free of charge with every meal. Asking payment for such a basic side dish would be inconceivable.

A Difficult Business

"If you manage to break even and don’t go bankrupt, that’s already fortunate," says one manufacturer. "For many of us over the past decade, we could not afford to upgrade in equipment."

‘A Food That Contains Our Soul’

Market forces mean that price, rather than provenance or production technique, is now the primary consideration.

One producer who has run a facility for 29 years abandoned plans for expansion years ago as Chinese imports gained ground. "Should we really be using kimchi from abroad when this is a food that contains our people’s soul?" he says. "It's deeply saddening."

Additional Challenges

These difficulties are exacerbated by the climate crisis, which is harming cabbage farming. Summer cultivation has become increasingly difficult in usual mountainous regions, causing market prices to sharply increase from one year to the next.

Government agencies and producers are working on hardier cabbage types and better storage, but trade associations question whether such measures can counteract the economic pressures.

Around three-quarters of the nation's kimchi manufacturers are very small enterprises with four or fewer employees, using labour-intensive methods that find it hard to compete with large-scale production in China.

Finding a Way Forward

The industry is trying to respond, though with limited tools.

• A voucher scheme offers restaurants a financial incentive to switch back to domestically produced kimchi.
• There are petitions for increased scrutiny of customs valuations for kimchi.
• Government initiatives include origin labeling programs for restaurants, farm aid for cabbage growers, and research to extend kimchi’s storage time for export.

A Matter of Taste

Ultimately, many believe that quality remains the local industry's strongest defence.

"Our kimchi has a distinct flavor," says an expert. "That cannot be replicated."