Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
